Plastic Bag technique & using Liquid Mask

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Bob Divelys brand liquid masking used.
I first bought a cheap single action Pasche airbrush to apply the liquid masking...but the thickness make it hard to spray even with a large nossel & the clean up was a real pain. Got this cheap sponge style brush at the dollar store have been using this exact one ever since. Notice that I used the green masking tape on the front and back of the body...no detail in the design there so why waste the liquid mask. I also put the LM right over the window masks that come wih the body...no reason to cut out the windows & the LM can be removed leaving them untouched.
One common problem is putting the stuff on to thin...then it is extrememly difficult to remove. My personal technique is to put a normal coat on as shown (left pic), then use a hair dryer to get most of it clear (right pic). 4 coats drying in between is thin enough to be easily removed and not to thick to cut through (took about 20 minutes). Then I put the body in a warm place over night like on my stereo receiver or monitor to make sure it is completely dry and ready to cut the next night. I try to use a new blade on every body to make the trimming consistent...a sharp blade needs less pressure so you are less likely to score to far into the lexan. Remember....better to apply it to thick then to thin.
Shown after every thing is complete...this was not the easiest to cut out with a all of the tight curves, but notice not a single blurry line and crisp sharp points...the liquid masking cures the "bleed" under the masking tape problem.

 

The plastic bag marbling effect is very easy to do...but there are a few things that will help out. Pick two colors that are fairly close together...in this cast light blue to be backed with white. The color you choose to apply with the bag should be the most transparent to smooth out the effect. I used a normal white plastic bag (anything that wrinkles well) and a piece of scrap lexan, put a few drops on the scrap. Then test on the scrap off to the side to make sure your bag is wrinkled enough and not too much paint applied, and just start blotting it on. The thin paint can be moved around even after it has been blotted on the body as long as it is still wet. The thicker paints like white harder to get a good look which is why 2 similar colors work will doing this. The pearlescent colors work very well doing this.
This is how it looks dry before the white was done. I had a smoother effect with the thin transparent yellow backed with red, but after the yellow was dry...I airbrushed a yellow glow around the flame.

 

The finished product:

This one is pretty loud, but I was having fun experimenting with several paints. The shadow on the blue got a little dark and I have started using Spazsticks window tint for a more realistic transparent effect with good results.

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