The Paint Zone X

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Featuring Faskolor paint, Bob Dively liquid masking and a body from Protoform (Rambunctious GT 1512)....I call it the Rock Solid GT

This is one of the most complex tops that I have painted. The first step was to mask the windows and this one came with some nice precut masking.

Then I used a product called liquid masking from Bob Dively. You spray it on...let it dry, then you can cut your masking where ever you want. Make sure to put it on thick...at least 3 coats.

You can also brush it on which I have later found is much easier with a sponge brush...again 3 coats.

 

I drew on the design using a permanent marker on the outside. The marker can be easily removed with Rubbing Alcohol and a wrag. Don't use thinner because it will blur the lexan. Most new tops come with a plastic cover to draw on.

After I used a sharp exacto blade, then I removed the darkest color first which was the black checkers and the roll bar. To spice up these areas I used a little purple before I sprayed on the black. It is not very noticable unless the light reflects right on it.

After the black then I removed the main part of the body. I like to spray the large area early so I don't have to re-mask it later.

I sprayed on a drop shadow in the appropriate areas then started on the background. I used a straight black, but you can make it less contrasting & more realistic with a darker grey..after all...when is the last time you was a solid black shadow. You can also add to the realism of a stone or marble texture with a few thin dark lines to simulate a crack. I like to use a Q-tip cut in half (not the fuzzy end) because they work very well and no cleaning...just throw them away.

All of the speckles were made with an old tooth brush. You just put a few drops of white on a board, dip in the brush and flick it on the top by running your thumb across it. After the white, then put some grey and black speckles on.
The rest of the top was then sprayed with shades of lighter and darker grey.
Next I sprayed the Faspearl Green and trimmed the graphics before finishing with the Faescent Blue. The green really shines in the sun.
The liquid masking makes an extremely sharp edge, but if you do not put it on thick enough...you will be sorry as it will be very hard to remove.
Now some more shadow work before the Fasfluorescent Orange. Did some fading and made sure the begining of the orange was thick enough ith several coats so the Fasfluorescent Yellow would not bleed through that far back but still show a very smooth fade
Here is a shot underneath ...with the Fluorescent colors....they do not appear very bright until you add a white backing, so the top will look a little dull at this stage.
There is no white backing on this shot but you can tell the difference with the ones below. I did not spray the Faswhite until the bright colors were completely dry (couple of hours in a very warm room)...if you spray over bright neon colors to soon you will make them appear a little pastel. After letting that sit overnight (I put the top over my stereo receiver or on top of my monitor) I put a light coat of Faskoat...let it dry again and finish with a rattle can of Pactra white just to give it a little more fuel resistance. The Faskolor is feul resistant, but I think the Pactra give me a sence of security with the water base paint <g>. The Faskoat is a little on the tacky side and will get dirt sticking to it, so the Pactra also solves that problem.

 

The finished product:

The pictures on this one do not do the body justice...the one has excellent contrast with the bright neon yellow glowing more than the stock rims. The checkers look black just like I wanted unless the light reflects directly on them. The combination of stone, metalic and neon works very well on this one. All of this info is to help out anyone interested in airbrushing. If you are proud of your next Lexan creation...send me a pic. Later....the Ronster

This top is currently in the "Painted bodies for sale" area of this site.


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