The Paint Zone V

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Starting a new set of tops to show all that are available for the RC10GT...this is the first of many to come. It is the Slammer from Dahms Racing Bodies and it is my current top for this season of racing.
The ol time consuming part....all the masking. I used a product called Friskit on the windows and a few other places...but I have decided that other masking materials are superior. The thinner in the Pactra paints saturated the masking, so when it was removed...it left sticky residue <grumble>. But I salvaged the top. I will be doing a top soon with the Faskolor water base paints, which should be ideal for the Friskit.
I decided to paint the roll bar area without masking...so it will have a faded edge.
After the black...then I used a rattle can of orange and gave it a solid coat.

The reflective metal look is actually pretty easy to paint...just put light lines of black in stripes before you put the silver down.

 

The I gave the front a solid spray from the blue can.

Next I unmasked the visor on the window...gave it some orange...let it dry and put a white back coat.

When that was dry, I unmasked all the neon yellow and got out the rattle can again. There is really no need to use an airbrush on solid areas unless you want to save a little weight and controll the overspray. With the neon paints...you need to let them dry for several hours (12 is suggested) before putting the white backing paint that is made for neon colors. If you do it to soon, the neon turnes a little pastel from the white soakin in.

All the windows unmasked, body trimmed with vent holes in the windshield and side window for motor cooling, then I cut an extra piece of lexan to reinforce the rear body mount area...this is the most common place for the body to crack..just use a lighter to get the lexan hot so you can bend it. It was attached with Shoe Goo. You will notice the Shoe Goo spread on all the other specific areas that are prone to cracking. This adds some weight, but will make your top last much longer. I also cut little pieces of lexan for the bolts on the bottom side of the wing...so the paint is not scratched off when the nuts are tightend down.

 

The finished product:
This is the completed top with all the trimming and stickers added. Most of the stickers I had laying around, but I got that clean looking #7 from AutoGraphics and the grey lines behind it seperating the yellow is a product called "Trim Tape" from Pactra which I was surprised at how flexible and easy this was to apply...even bending the arcs. It also hides those messy bleeding masking tape lines (although my lines are always perfect <g>). Dahms Racing Bodies
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